Third, gas seems to be making its way into the oilįourth, No matter what i do i cant get the tach to work with the VW distro. Well anyways car is up and running and on the road again and i have some issues. Ok so ive dissapeared from this site for quite some time, ive been waiting sooo long for my camshaft, Thank you FWD performance for taking nearly 5 months on my cam. This may not destroy the engine right away but it shortens the service life. ![]() When it does finally open, water will blast out of the radiator, thermoshock the cylinder heads and do all sorts of nasty things inside the engine. Air is a good insulator and the engine can overheat before the t-stat opens. What this does is let the air burble up so you have water on the metal tube in the metal instead of air. If there isn't a jiggle valve on the thermostat, I drill a 1/64 hole in the body of the thermostat and make sure it is at the top when installed. Second, drilling holes in the thermostat body. ![]() The engine will stay in open loop mode and never get the full power it is capable of. ![]() Alas, if you havea computer that controls warm up (all F.I. IF you don't have a computer, a 180 degree will help a denser fuel/air charge get into the cylinders. Yes, you can do the same thing with a degree tape or a degreed damper, but you might need two people to be able to watch the tach and damper at the same time.In regards to a couple of earlier replies, a cooler thermostat will work better than removing the center. Then you look to see how many degrees you have the light advanced. I just went to my desired rpm and clicked the advance/retard button until the timing mark flashed on ZERO degrees. It has two digital windows side-by-side, one reads rpm and other reads the advance you have it set at. Got to say it was REAL easy to determine when your advance is coming in. I used a friends Snap-On digital a couple of weeks ago. He said the others, (dial type),will be off by 4 or 5 degrees when you are at full advance. ![]() If I got this all wrong I appologize in "advance" !!!! HA! HA!Īccording to Ignitionman the only rollback lights that work with modern ignition systems are the high end digitals like Snap-On, or MAC. as I would like to own one of these useful tools myself! I am no help as far as what brand to buy, but I will watch other replies to your post and see what suggestions other guys may make. Maybe someone else can clear this up for both of us. The only thing I am not sure of is if you need to add your initial timing to the timing found as explained earlier. You would then read the amount of timing marked off in degrees around the outside of the knob and that is your total timing at this rpm. They way I understand it, you can set your rpm anywhere you wish and "dial back" the timing mark to zero using the knob on the timing light (by "dial back", I mean watching the timing mark on balancer while your engine is running and adjusting the knob to bring back the timing mark to zero degrees). Although I don't own one and have never used one, these devices are very useful for discovering the amount of timing your engine has at any given rpm.
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